A Northerly Win and Dance of Trust
A Northerly Win and Dance of Trust.
By Trudy (Deckie) Erdmann
It was PDYC gazetted Race to Hope Island followed by the Lizard Island Rally.
It would seem some seafarers looked at the conditions & decided their Hopes were more opportunistically south bound. Due to either unfortunate situations, work commitments or foiled plans of outside influences, other companions of the sea had to pull the pin rather than their picks. Somewhat regretful farewells laced with advise of all possible dangers saw Tau Ceti Skipper and faithful crew of one setting off for Low Isles.
A quiet evening for settling in, assessing wine quality and checking charts for a good start for Hope Island. Fine sunny conditions, SE 20kt and a well paced following sea saw us lead into Hope with excellent visibility to finally motor maze thorough the notorious bommies.
Considering East Hope Island is the main aboard sleep over in the neighbouring latitudes, she was strangely deserted. But for one other at anchor, we enjoy a choice of three moorings, Efficiently hooked up with ample time for an island stroll, snorkelling and sundowners on deck counting the nesting fly-ins.
It must be noted in the club records of the inaugural Tau Ceti win for 2010 of both line honours and handicap; remembering it was a race after all with other potential contenders on an southerly error heading. The crew therefore partook in a few rounds of self salutations.
With Hope ablaze on a fiery sunrise and heeding Garry White’s explicit directions (volume up) line up the two northerly buoys and head off directly saw a clean departure into the same great conditions as the previous day. Conditions remained so fabulously static to destination therefore will not be monotonously recorded.
With the Cape Bedford mound landscaping …for a long time…the bored dinghy decided to take an independent detour. Scooped up on a 360’spin had the big boat take charge again.
In the lee of Bedford, Tau Ceti settled in early on the pick the for a sumptuous luncheon and an assessment of the cellared stock which slid effortlessly into sundowners. Sunset over the painted sand hills stunned the mill pond reflections.
The uncivilised hour of 0145 vibrated the keel to sand ratio enforcing a move to better depth. The then discomforting swell had the bleary eyed crew well ready for a sunrise departure.
Destination Lizard Island was pacing at a great rate with readings over 8kts. Under sail at 7kts into Watsons Bay was quite a crowd pleaser and we were quite impressed ourselves. As the anchor digs in we launch our slightly over-sized state flag of Queensland into Lizard’s legendary bullets. What an entry! With possibly 30 vessels perfectly aligned bow to beach, it’s quite a remarkable parking lot.
A few destination toasts with a belated lunch on the side cleared away, we make for the beach in ding. The Skipper, never one to stop for long, sorts the high mark on Chinaman’s Ridge for home telecommunications. He finally reneges and accepts the Deckie’s in NG phone. Trekking back via the cast iron hand pump saw us taking advantage for abolitions and a water top up. Tomorrow we’ll bring two buckets to balance up the Skippers gait. Although it’s been a big day there’s time to get the roast lamb & veg going and efficiently stocktake the cellar.
Up ‘n at ‘em, an early start for the trek up Cooks Look. After glancing the cautionary sign at the base, Deckie does wonder to trust the Skipper; being a mountain man, will he make it in his trusty thongs.
I should never doubt him; he who paced up the steep rocky track as I lagged behind. No, it was actually lingering, purely due to the surrounding photographic possibilities above and below, of too blue skies, white silica beaches and surrounding turquoise seas; I did mention the weather conditions are continuously perfect.
Deckie’s dancing on the peak and the Skipper is wondering why as he autographs the Trekkers book and returns it to the treasure chest. Her previous visit to Lizard incurred a severe leg injury therefore enviously watching the daily walkers head up; so this was a personal triumph to absorb the 360’ views and imprint nature’s sheer beauty and colours in her mind. A quick easier decent & back on board for lunch, cooling hydration and rest.
Deckie’s cutting serious zeds but Skipper’s off again…must do the Research Station. Whingeing reply…been there, done that has little effect so back to beach (with two buckets & snorkel gear), over the airstrip and off along the back track to the Station. Lizard’s fine sand in the drier areas protected from any breeze makes it hot hard work. Skipper is long legged and deaf to are we there yet but Deckie hears a motor from behind; the tractor driver’s invitation for a ride is hastily grabbed by both for a white knuckled 4WD ride on the tray. Any thought of OH&S issues are put aside, it beats slugging up the sand track.
A peruse at research in action, purchase of a new stubby holder & boast cards - hey this is shopping! sees us head for Loomis Beach for a recommended drift snorkel of the reef. It’s good with the abundant brilliant fish & turtles just as curious of us as we of them.
Deckie insists returning to Watson’s Bay via the more civilized Sunset Beach walk, swish Re$ort pathways then again over Chinaman’s Ridge. Skipper’s content with the course as the sun is lowering for a green flash at day‘s end. The pump cleans the crew up, the water buckets are full as we head back to dinghy…sitting well above the HWM. If Deckie can drag with strength it’s a promise of a Marlin Bar feed…
One hour later…ding to Anchor Bay, refuse in the skip (all those empties make such a noise!); relaxing at the Marlin Bar with dinner and drinks, it’s considered it’s been a spectacular day.
Not yet finished with Lizard, the next morning it’s a walk down the airstrip, thorough the sand dunes to the far side…magnificent Blue Lagoon is just breath taking. Walking around deserted Mangrove Beach, squeaky silica sand with waters of iridescent blues for more snorkelling the reef. Skipper swears he’s seen a mermaid!
Returning walk takes a slight detour to the Re$ort reception for Deckie’s obligatory post cards mail deposited and she discovers The $hop…but only window shopping and luxuriously sampling exclusive body products on her sun kissed skin. Oh…Skipper’s waiting…….out front. Return is wearing out the track over Chinaman’s Ridge.
That afternoon Tau Ceti motor sails around Granite Head onto the mooring in the real Mermaid Cove; possibly for a change of view or more likely an easing in the breeze. One does wonder why all the boats are clogged in Watson’s Bay leaving Mermaid peacefully solitude. This will be 24 hours of rest; beach combing, climbing the hills & swimming the reef on the open side and immediately off the duck board …too perfect…a rest?
Late afternoon Tau Ceti’s back in Watson’s with preparation for the start of the return leg on the morrow….one more effort at the water pump for abs, the obligatory carting of two buckets and laundry is done. Pegging the rigging is such fun at Lizard! Anchor drag to a mothership is definitely not fun.
No motoring out of Lizard for this skipper as those winds scoop us out on an early start for the numerous tacks to make the degrees creep into south. This is working at sailing with a tag team at the helm and veteran eyes to the sheets; conditions are, as ever, fine SE 15-20kt with moderate seas. Not mentioning how many sailing hours later, in the calm shadow of the Cape Bedford saddle, its pick, sun and bevvies downed. A starry silent still night experienced but more likely the effects of the last 12 hours.
Bedford to Cooktown is more of the same although a shorter passage. Pure sailing at 6.5kts on the North approach, sighting the leads against a similar coloured background is tricky; keep watch of those damn annoying sandbars. Wasting no time, we’re anchored by the Queen’s launch and it’s off to the Top Pub for an afternoon’s entertainment with the local red necks (said with affection!). That evening, well sated on the RSL’s rare-medium large cow on a plate, it’s too late to replenish the Skipper’s dwindled XXXX Gold supplies. Cooktown is closed for the evening and he‘s looking concerned. Adding insult to injury as dinghy is well above the HWM. Deep slushy mud is no fun to drag anything at that time of the night. On falling asleep Deckie contemplates her liquid provisions and possible fair rationings.
An early start and Hope Island sits a long while on the horizon with ESE varying SE 15k. Seen from different angles on many tacks Tau Ceti is not gaining as the sun lowers so time to turn the key. On near approach Deckie’s doing an anxious dance on the bow with dull visibility for bommies and the parking lot is chockers. A large aggressive cat man equalling the size of his vessel hollers remarks left ignored - something about too close but this crew is too busy. Just on dropping the pick a lone mooring is sighted and we’re sitting pretty within minutes. A wave, wink and unfurling the large QLD flag sends big cat man below muttering something about red necks & grotty yachties. A toast and more to all seafarers!
After a still night and a cheeky wave to glowering cat man, Tau Ceti is first motor off the mark for Cape Tribulation with SE 10kts; it’s a long day of tacks. Plenty of time to appreciate the mountainous coastline from repetitively near and afar with the Devil’s Thumb literally giving us the finger. Motor sailing is inevitable and we’re tucked behind the Cape well before sundowners. To the amusement of beach walkers, in a barely refreshed state the Skipper’s doing a dance. He’s located a forgotten secret stash of his beloved gold…so easily pleased.
Dinner at P.K.s is a good choice although the night walk return via the road’s centre white line is pretty dodgy. It’s put down to a cloudy dark night of zero visibility. The unexpected road works and bridge reconstruction at Cooper Creek did not help matters. The white line is no more and the many fireflies weren’t exactly illuminating the way - only fell off the road twice. The receding tide brings on the expected dinghy drag to water. Are we getting better at this manoeuvre? A good evening out communing with the Trib nightlife.
Serious sleeping is disrupted around bewitching hour as low tide sees the keel touching base so it’s a quick move to deeper anchorage and then enduring an increasingly annoying swell on the change.
A cloud painted dawn is pending as we readily depart and while sailing some of the way, it’s a must return to the iron horse for making the distance. Mid morning a dory approaches at some urgency but its two trout fisher boys suffering a severe lack of refreshments. They’ve travelled from afar out off Cooktown, after suffered the same fate as the Skipper. (bottle shops close early in Cooktown!) The young blokes are prepared to part with serious funds if we have excess provisions. A fair trade is exchanged and they whooop off at speed to celebrate.
At the jaws of Snapper Island we head for the home lighthouse of Low. Another easy mooring with the first drizzle of the voyage rinsing down the decks at sunset. It’s time to clear up the dregs of the cellar.
A hearty brekkie on yet another clear morning sees the Skipper sailing immediately off the mooring. By now Deckie knows he thrills at this manoeuvre. In our own backyard, it’s a good SE 20kt with moderate swell seeing us quickly thorough the leads of Port by mid morning.
The losses on this voyage remains at 1 x cap, 1 x sunglasses, a retrieved dinghy, responsible disposal of empties, tattering of the headsail suncover and further characteristic shredding of the biminy.
The gains were many; brilliant sailing and conditions, pure essence of nature, appreciating an uncomplicated lifestyle, fitness levels, enjoyable experiences and of course friendship. Deckie encourages others to Do Lizard in 2011 for a fantastic voyage of dancing with the elements and a trusty Skipper.
